How double denim came back into fashion



If the garment is communication, what does the double denim say about its wearer? When Brad Pitt appears in Thelma & Louise, dressed in a loose denim shirt tucked into blue jeans, her outfit speaks of irreverence and free spirit. When Ryan Gosling dresses in a denim jacket and denim jeans Drive, he plays the nice neighborhood boy (although his leather driving gloves hint at a darker side). In brokeback mountain, Jake Gyllenhaal’s denim shirt and jeans signal both his membership in the macho world of the American West and his sexuality (double denim is a signifier for the queer community). Over time, it has become recognized as a look that represents freedom.

Amiri Bandana Print trucker jacket, £ 955 and five-pocket flared jeans, £ 605 © Frank Terry

Dolce & Gabbana denim jacket, £ 2,350, tank top, £ 145, jeans, £ 1,300 and sneakers, £ 625

Dolce & Gabbana denim jacket, £ 2,350, tank top, £ 145, jeans, £ 1,300 and sneakers, £ 625

And it’s featured in designer collections again this season. Balenciaga gave it a grungy ’90s touch with an acid wash denim jacket paired with frayed jeans. Dolce & Gabbana patchwork different washes in a jacket and jeans. At a Californian brand influenced by skateboarding Amiri, blue-black jeans paired with a light blue acid-washed jacket for a clean look. Based in london LEJThe first spring-summer collection of was equipped with an indigo selvedge shirt with five slightly faded pockets. And Martine Rose paired pale blue jeans with an oversized jacket which made the rugged fabric look positively comfortable.

Moustapha Sy wears a Guess x Friendswithyou cotton denim jacket, £ 115, and cotton denim pants, £ 95.  Louis Vuitton cashmere turtleneck, £ 915.  JM Weston Boxcalf Golf Montant leather boots, £ 790.  Socks, specific to the model

Moustapha Sy wears a Guess x Friendswithyou cotton denim jacket, £ 115, and cotton denim pants, £ 95. Louis Vuitton cashmere turtleneck, £ 915. JM Weston Boxcalf Golf Montant leather boots, £ 790. Socks, property of the model © Robin Galiegue

“Our customer wants this unique, hard-to-find denim that will set them apart,” says Joe Brunner, Menswear Buyer at Browns. “We find that fashion items work better than more traditional everyday items. He notes that in addition to seeing the look through the big houses, young designers such as Stefan Cooke, Casablanca and Bethany williams are also picking up the trend, “pushing the boundaries of men’s denim with different prints, washes and textures”.

How to approach the trend as a newcomer? There are two ways, says Brunner. “The first being to think big or to come home. For maximalists, he recommends “something flamboyant” like the Casablanca denim-print jacket and jeans. “It looks amazing and you will definitely stand out. Or, for the conservative dresser, he advises turning to the ’70s Americana, which “emits effortlessly cool, Hollywood vibes.” “I would go with something Visvim that nods to vintage with dark washes, rips and distressed patches. Orslow is always a great option with classic, sophisticated jeans.

american label Guess, which was founded in 1981 – just as the trend was at its peak – are mainstays of double denim. “The double denim style has worked for Guess in the 80s, 90s and until today,” says Paul Marciano, CCO of the brand. “Denim is the symbol of freedom, it is for everyone, at any age and at any time.” For his summer campaign, shot on the Sicilian coast, Marciano dressed models in real blue denim shirts and paler skinny jeans, giving the collection a touch of ’80s youth. “Denim is our roots and, ever since In the beginning, Guess always worked with double denim because it represents the young, the sexy and the adventurous. ”

Model, Moustapha Sy at Rebel Management. Casting, Mathilde Curel for Julia Lange Casting. Hairdressing, Pawel Solis at Artlist Paris. Make-up, Mayumi Oda at Bryant Artists. Assistant photographers, Thomas Charbois and Kevin Theard. Digital operator, Romain Courtois. Stylist assistant, Marie Poulmarch. Production, Rosco Productions



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