Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, both intellectual designers, have found an intelligent answer to these turbulent times: simplicity, joy and the human touch.
Their co-signed Spring 2022 collection had a light spirit, and it felt honest and effortless, while still bursting with that edgy freshness that is the epitome of Prada.
“The world is so complicated – so complicated – that we can lose the essence of human life,” Prada said in notes to critics after the show. “It’s an idea that has interested me for several seasons and that we are exploring in different ways. We come from previous collections which were all about technicality, machines, which reflect the need for technology. Now we think the opposite. Human, real. Our interest in technology has come from its place as a communication tool for humanity. But this expression is much more direct.
According to Prada, the collection was above all about portraying the joy of everyday life. “The idea that living your life can be a euphoric experience,” she continued. “A lot of joy can come from something so simple: when times are tough, we look for joys that are simple and straightforward. Innocence. “
What could be more innocent than childhood? Take inspiration from the season’s key element, the romper, shown with rolled up cuffs and presented in different variations, from solid options to printed patterns, including a couple in irregular vertical stripes.
The summer vibe of the collection was amplified by the video, which combined the concept of human and nature artefacts. A red tunnel installed inside a warehouse of the Fondazione Prada in Milan, has become a portal to the natural environment, leading to the sandy beaches and crystal clear waters of Sardinia.
“The show represents a transition – between a tunnel, an urban space and the sea. We don’t think it should be complicated – the story is pure, straightforward. A passage from the inside to the outside. After the constriction, the power of this feeling of infinity, an endless horizon. It gives you the feeling of freedom again. It’s human nature, ”said Simons. “What interests us is: how can these two moments, these two environments merge? A contrast between the fashion industry system – the runway – and nature. We started on the show the previous fall to bring in these moments of different cast behavior, and here you see the models in a different context, a different environment, a different reality. You see them being totally free, actually. It’s natural.”
The collection sits somewhere between the utopia of fashion and everyday reality. Simple silhouettes were repeated throughout the range, adapting to the urban or beach environment. For example, the romper turned into a metropolitan uniform in a dark navy blue version topped with polished brogues, or gave off a chic and carefree vibe when rendered in white cotton printed with marine patterns, including anchors, and layered under a boat neck sweater with crisscross details.
Precise outerwear, ranging from minimalist trench coats and cheerful colored car coats to leather jackets with an old-fashioned look, anchored the range in high, everyday functionality. Elsewhere, square-necked tank tops were paired with relaxed pants, while charming surf-print hoodies were paired with rolled-up cropped pants.
While Prada and Simons focused on simplicity and timelessness, there were a lot of beasts in fashion. The short shorts with the look of miniskirts, the bobs with the triangle pocket on the back edge and the striped knits with a naive look are all items that will influence the season, both creatively and commercially.